1/Climbing the Johnnie Walker range. Two rungs this week: Black Label 12 at $58, and the 18 at $179. One is a world-famous blend, poised and balanced, toffee and caramel under a twist of white smoke. The other sits a good way up the ladder. So before you reach for the taller bottle, here's the question worth asking: what does the step up actually get you? Let's walk it.

2/Step up to the 18: six more years, $121 more. Woodsmoke off green twigs, vanilla cream, honey over baked apples, a catch of smoke into the finish. Going up, the 18 gives a Black Label 12 drinker about 85% of what the Black Label 12 does. It isn't more of the same — what's different is mostly the extra sherry and dried fruit and those six years of age. Come back down, and the Black Label 12 gives an 18 drinker about 74% of what the 18 does, for 32% of its price.

3/So, a yes for each. The Black Label 12 for most nights: toffee, swirling caramel, whole almond, that white smoke, the closest thing to a complete blend at its price. The 18 when you want the extra sherry and dried fruit, candied apricot and gingerbread, a little more age in the glass. More is not always better. Pour the one that suits the night — and if you've only ever known one rung, try the other once.