Here is the odd thing about The Glen Grant 10. On the critics' rating it lands in the bottom 4% of the whiskies at Dan Murphy's. On how broadly drinkers like it, it lands in the top 18%. Same bottle, two very different readings. The scorers and the people doing the drinking are not looking at the same thing.
Taste it and you can see why the drinkers are so warm on it. The first impression is a light, floral lift, fresh as cut hay in the sun. The Glen Grant 10 is light for a Speysider, with honeyed vanilla and lively fruit underneath, a hint of marshmallow, then a soft, dry finish that doesn't outstay. It's clean and straightforward, the kind of introductory malt that's easy to say yes to.
This week it's $66 at Dan Murphy's — a plain everyday price. Set it beside its stand-ins below and draw your own line.
So what would the drinkers of the bottles closest to it pay for The Glen Grant 10, each starting from what they already pay for their own? A Glen Moray 15 drinker would hand over about $86 for it, which is 88% of what their own bottle costs them, marking it down mostly for being younger than theirs. The other way round, a Glen Grant 10 drinker puts Glen Moray 15 at about 93% of their own bottle, marking it down for being older than theirs and for the name on the label. Across the drinkers of the bottles nearest it, the answers run from $67 to $109. At $66, this week's price sits inside what those drinkers would pay.
Three stand-ins, if you want a change of scene. Glen Moray 12 ($79, and it usually sells around $79, seen as low as $71) leans sweeter — honey, icing sugar, toffee bonbons and orange peel, then nectarine and lychee over soft oak; to a Glen Grant 10 drinker it gives about 98% of what the Glen Grant does, for 120% of its price. The Glenlivet 12 ($76, usually around $79) is the florist of the group, all lily and orchid and pineapple with a thick creaminess bedding them down, and a sneeze of white pepper with water; it also gives a Glen Grant 10 drinker about 98%, for 115% of the price. The Singleton of Dufftown 12 ($69) is the quiet one — very soft, faint, a wash of alcoholic fruit punch and an easy, accessible manner that puts approachability first; it gives about 97%, for 105% of the price. Poured at home, all three come in around $3.12 to $3.58 a standard drink, under the roughly $6.28 a standard drink of a $13 pint at the pub.
Who's it for? If The Glen Grant 10 is already your bottle, nothing here unseats it: $66 this week, light and clean and easy, exactly what the drinkers' warmth is about. If you lean sherried and fuller, the Glen Moray 15 your neighbour swears by will read as richer and older, and you now know roughly what you'd pay to find out. If you want more flowers and a creamy middle, The Glenlivet 12 is the one to reach for. And if you just want the softest, most undemanding pour on the bench, The Singleton of Dufftown 12 does that for a few dollars more. The critics may keep their distance; the drinkers have made their peace, and at $66 there's an easy yes in it for most people.
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